Mukuni is a Leya village on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, about 20 to 30 minutes' drive east of Livingstone, and the seat of Chief Mukuni, the traditional ruler whose people have lived beside the falls for centuries. A guided village tour lasts about two hours, takes you through homesteads, the school and the area around the chief's palace, and costs roughly US$50 to US$80 per person from Livingstone at the time of writing.
Who the Leya are
The Leya are a Tonga-speaking people whose territory runs along the Zambezi around the falls. Their name for the falls, Shungu na Mutitima, is usually translated as "the boiling water that thunders". By tradition the Mukuni chieftaincy are the custodians of the falls, and your guide will explain what that role means today.
The village has several thousand residents; figures quoted range from about 5,000 to 7,000. Many people farm, some work in tourism in Livingstone, and a good number carve and sell crafts.
What a tour covers
Tours are led by a guide from the village. The content varies with the guide and the day, but usually includes:
- The homesteads: how houses are built from poles, mud and thatch, how they are decorated, and how compounds are laid out by family.
- Daily life: cooking, pounding maize, fetching water, small gardens. You may be invited into a home; it is fine to decline.
- The school or clinic: often on the route, sometimes with a chance to meet teachers. Classes should not be interrupted.
- The chief's palace: you see it from outside, and the guide explains the chieftaincy and its customs. Entering requires permission and is not routine.
- The craft market: carvers and basket-makers sell work, often more cheaply than in town.
You are visiting a working village, not a show. Some days are lively, some quiet. People are going about their lives, and that is the point.
Prices and booking
At the time of writing:
- Village-only tour from Livingstone: roughly US$50 to US$55 per person, about two to three hours including the drive.
- Half-day combinations with the falls or the Livingstone Museum: about US$60 to US$80, five to six hours.
- A visitor fee usually goes to the village and its community projects; check whether it is included in your quote.
- Tip your guide directly.
Prices change. Ask what goes to the village, not just what the tour costs.
How to visit well
- Dress modestly: cover shoulders and knees. It is a sign of respect, especially near the palace.
- Ask before photographing people, and accept a no. Do not photograph children without a parent's permission.
- Do not hand out sweets, money or pens, however tempting. It teaches children to beg from visitors. If you want to give, ask your guide about the school or a community project, and give through them.
- Buy crafts if you like them. It is the most direct way your money reaches individuals. Bargain gently; the margins are small.
- Greet people. Ask your guide to teach you a greeting in Tonga on the drive out; that, or just a smile and hello, goes a long way.
Our page on Livingstone's markets and crafts has more on what to buy and fair prices.
When to go
Tours run all year. Mornings are cooler and more people are around. From September to November it is hot and dusty by midday; from December to March paths can be muddy, but the fields are green and busy.
Ceremonies are held at certain times of year. If one coincides with your visit, the guide will tell you whether visitors are welcome. Do not assume.
Getting there
Most visitors go on a tour with transport from Livingstone. A taxi is possible, but you would still need a guide from the village, which a tour arranges for you. The road is tarred most of the way. For getting around in general, see our guide to where to stay in Livingstone, which also explains how distances work between town, the river and the falls.
Fitting it in
A village visit pairs well with a morning at the falls, since both are east of town, or with the museum for an afternoon of history. Responsible travel and the local community matter to Zambezi Dusk, the family-owned lodge upstream on the Kazungula Road, which arranges local market visits for its guests through partners; its community page sets out what it supports.
