A first time at Victoria Falls goes best if you know three things before you land: the falls look completely different depending on the month, they are split between two countries with a border in the middle, and the best views come early in the morning, before the coaches arrive. Get those right and the rest is detail. This page covers what first-time visitors tend to get wrong; for a day-by-day plan, use the three-day Livingstone itinerary.
The falls change completely with the season
The Zambezi rises from about January, peaks around March to May, and falls to its lowest from October to December. At peak, the spray rises hundreds of metres, you will be drenched on the paths, and from some viewpoints you see only white. At the lowest, parts of the Zambian side become bare rock, but you can swim at the edge in Devil's Pool.
Neither is wrong, but they are different trips. Decide what you want to see, then choose the month. Our month-by-month guides lay it out.
It is two countries
The falls are on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Livingstone is the Zambian town, about 10 km away; Victoria Falls town is the Zimbabwean one, about 1 km from its park entrance. The Victoria Falls Bridge links the two, with a border post at each end.
Each side has its own national park, ticket and opening hours. Zambia gets you closer to parts of the falls and onto Livingstone Island. Zimbabwe faces the main falls head-on and has more viewpoints. The Zambia or Zimbabwe guide explains the trade-offs.
Visas need a moment of thought
If you plan to visit both sides, ask for the KAZA UniVisa on arrival. It covers Zambia and Zimbabwe, allows crossings between them, and also covers day trips into Botswana through Kazungula. It has been suspended and reinstated in the past, so check before you go. If it is not available, find out if your nationality needs a separate visa for each country.
Go early
The parks open at about 06:00. The tour coaches arrive from about 09:00. In September and October, temperatures climb into the 30s °C by late morning. The best hour at the falls is the first one.
You will get wet, or you will not
From about February to July, wear quick-drying clothes and sandals with grip. A poncho helps for about five minutes. Put your phone and passport in a dry bag. From about August, the paths dry out and the problem becomes heat: hat, water and sunscreen. Our guide on what to wear at Victoria Falls has a full list.
Cash still matters
Carry US dollars in small notes, in good condition: torn notes and older-series notes are sometimes refused. Card machines exist but fail more often than you would like, especially on the Zimbabwe side and at smaller businesses. In Zambia you can use kwacha for everyday purchases. For more, see money and payments in Zambia.
Mistakes that cost time
- Booking Devil's Pool for March. It is only open at low water, from roughly mid-August to January. Dates move each year.
- Planning a flight for your last morning. Helicopter and microlight flights are cancelled in bad weather. Book them early in the stay.
- Underestimating the border. At busy times each crossing can take up to an hour. Do not plan a tight lunch on the other side.
- Walking at night. Elephants walk through both towns and along the river roads after dark. Take a taxi.
- Trying to do everything. Rafting, a flight, Devil's Pool, both sides, a Chobe day trip and a sunset cruise do not fit in three days. Choose two big things.
The river is half the trip
Many first-time visitors come for the falls and remember the river. Above the falls the Zambezi is wide and slow, with islands, hippos, crocodiles, a great many birds and, from about June to October, elephants crossing between the banks. A sunset boat trip is the obvious way to see it; a dawn trip is often better.
Health
The area is in a malaria zone. Speak to a travel clinic about tablets, use repellent from dusk and sleep under a net where provided. Drink bottled or treated water. Check your government's travel advice before you go.
Where to stay on a first visit
Close to the falls if you want to walk there; on the river upstream if you want the quieter side of the trip. Many first-time visitors find a small, inclusive lodge easier than arranging each transfer and meal separately. If you have questions about what a particular lodge includes before you commit, it is reasonable to ask: Zambezi Dusk, for example, answers enquiries about activities, seasons and transfers through its contact page.
