December is when the rains settle in over Livingstone and the Zambezi begins, slowly, to rise. The falls are still low for most of the month, especially on the Zambian side, but the landscape turns green almost overnight and the air fills with birdsong. Devil's Pool and the low-water rafting run usually stay open. The first three weeks are quiet; the festive fortnight is one of the busiest periods of the year.
Water level and spray
The river's low point is usually in November, and in December the rise begins. It is slow at first. The rain falling in Livingstone does little; the water that matters is falling in Angola and north-western Zambia and will take weeks to arrive. Expect the falls to look much as they did in November for the first half of the month, with a slight increase by Christmas.
On the Zambian side, the face east of Livingstone Island is mostly dark rock with thin streams. Views are clear and dry, and you can see the shape of the lip and the pools on top of it. From Zimbabwe, Main Falls and Devil's Cataract flow well and are worth the crossing; see Victoria Falls: Zambia or Zimbabwe for the details.
Weather
Highs are usually about 31°C and lows about 20°C. Rainfall averages about 165 mm over roughly 15 days. Storms tend to build in the early afternoon and break later in the day, often with spectacular lightning, and the evenings are warm and humid. Humidity usually sits around 70–75%. Mornings are often bright and fresh after overnight rain, the best time for walks and the falls.
Dirt roads can become muddy and slow. Some game drive circuits close after heavy rain.
What's open
- Devil's Pool. Usually open all month, as the river is still low. In some years it closes in late December if the rise comes early; most years it lasts into January. Book ahead for the festive period. See Livingstone Island.
- Rafting. The full low-water run usually continues through December. Some operators switch to the high-water trip around the end of the month or in January, depending on the level.
- Lunar rainbow. Not a realistic prospect; spray is still minimal.
- Flights, bungee, gorge swing. All running, though afternoon storms cause cancellations. Fly in the morning.
- Sunset cruises. Running, with dramatic storm skies, though a storm can occasionally cut one short.
Wildlife and birding
Once the rains are established, water lies everywhere and animals disperse away from the river. Elephant sightings on the upper Zambezi become less predictable than in the dry months, though hippos, crocodiles and riverine antelope are still easy. Young impala and other antelope are everywhere in early December.
For birders, December is one of the best months. Summer migrants are all present: woodland kingfishers, European and southern carmine bee-eaters, paradise flycatchers, cuckoos and many more. Breeding plumage is at its brightest, and the dawn chorus along the river is loud. A slow boat trip on the upper Zambezi in the first two hours after sunrise is the way to see the most.
Crowds and rates
There are really two Decembers. From the start of the month until about 20 December, it is quiet, and many lodges charge green-season or shoulder rates. From about 20 December to early January, the festive season brings families from South Africa, Zambia and further afield. Many lodges charge festive rates and set minimum stays. If you want Christmas or New Year at the falls, book months ahead.
What to pack
- A light rain jacket or compact umbrella.
- Breathable, quick-drying clothes.
- Swimwear and water shoes for Devil's Pool.
- Sun protection; the sun is strong between storms.
- Plenty of insect repellent with DEET or picaridin. Mosquito numbers rise sharply with the rains, so get malaria advice from a travel clinic before you travel. Our health and malaria guide explains the basics.
Go if, skip if
Go if you want Devil's Pool and rafting with a green backdrop, excellent birding, and lower prices in the first three weeks. Go for a warm, lively Christmas if you book early.
Skip if you want the falls full from the Zambian side, or reliably dry days. Skip the festive fortnight if you are looking for quiet or a bargain.
Festive planning
If you are travelling over Christmas, book accommodation first, then Devil's Pool and any flights, as these sell out. A lodge on the river upstream of the falls gives you morning boat trips before the storms and somewhere comfortable to watch them roll in. If you're comparing places, the suites and villa at Zambezi Dusk are one option on that stretch of river.
For the full year, see Victoria Falls weather by month and the best time to visit Victoria Falls. Before December: Victoria Falls in November. After: Victoria Falls in January.
