May is when Victoria Falls is still close to its fullest but the weather has turned dry and clear. The river is usually just past its peak, the spray is heavy, and the Zambian side will soak you. The difference from March and April is the air: almost no rain, lower humidity, sharp blue skies and the first properly cool evenings of the year. For a lot of visitors it is the best combination of water and comfort.
Water level and spray
The flood usually crests in April, so May starts with the river at or just below its highest. It falls slowly through the month, and the change is hard to see from one week to the next. The whole 1.7 km lip is under water.
On the Zambian side, the Knife-Edge Bridge and the rainforest path facing the Eastern Cataract are in the thick of the spray. You will not stay dry. The difference from April is that the spray thins slightly on calm mornings, so there are moments when the curtain appears through the cloud, especially early in the day. On the Zimbabwean side, the viewpoints near Devil's Cataract and Cataract Island give the clearest views; those opposite Main Falls and Horseshoe Falls are wet but more open than in April.
Clear, dry weather also makes the daytime rainbows in the spray stronger and more frequent, particularly from mid-morning when the sun is behind you on the Zambian side.
Weather
Expect highs of about 28°C and lows of about 11°C. Rainfall is close to zero; the long-term average is about 3 mm for the whole month. Humidity drops to around 50–55%. Days are pleasantly warm and the sun is strong, but by late afternoon the temperature falls quickly, and a sunrise boat trip can start below 12°C.
What's open
- Devil's Pool and Livingstone Island. Both closed in a normal year. The island tour usually reopens in June or July as the water drops; Devil's Pool not until around August.
- Rafting. Often still suspended or limited to a short high-water section. Some operators restart in late May or June when the level allows. Check close to your date.
- Lunar rainbow. One of the best months. Clear skies and full spray mean the arc is usually visible on full moon nights. Both rainforests open late on these nights, with a separate ticket. Bring a tripod if you want a photograph, and a cover for it.
- Flights. Excellent. Dry air and no storms mean few cancellations, and the plume is still huge. A helicopter flight early in the day has the best light.
- Boat trips, bungee, gorge swing, walking with rhinos. All running. The rhino walks in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park get easier as the grass dries and thins.
Wildlife and birding
May is the start of the dry season, and wildlife gradually moves back towards permanent water. Inland pans are drying, so by late May elephants are crossing to the islands of the upper Zambezi more often, and herds of buffalo, waterbuck and impala come down to drink in the evenings. Grass is still fairly tall, so spotting is not yet as easy as in August or September.
Most migrant birds have left. Residents such as fish eagles, pied and malachite kingfishers, darters and herons are easy to see on the river. Trumpeter hornbills are common in the riverine forest around the falls.
Crowds and rates
May is usually shoulder season. Many lodges move to mid-season rates around now, and visitor numbers start to climb towards the end of the month. It is still noticeably calmer than July and August. Activities can usually be booked a few days ahead, although lunar rainbow nights and early helicopter slots fill sooner.
What to pack
- A poncho or rain jacket for the falls; it hasn't rained for weeks, but the Zambian side is still a downpour.
- A change of clothes and a towel in the car.
- A fleece or light down jacket for mornings and evenings, plus long trousers.
- Sun hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. The dry season sun is strong.
- Insect repellent for evenings. Mosquito numbers fall in the dry months, but ask a travel clinic about malaria all the same.
Go if, skip if
Go if you want the falls near full with reliable dry weather, a lunar rainbow, and fewer people than in winter. It suits first-time visitors who want water and comfort in the same trip.
Skip if Devil's Pool, the island or the full rafting run is the point. Skip if you dislike being cold at dawn; May mornings are crisper than many visitors expect.
A good May routine
Falls in the morning while the light is soft and the wind is down; something gentle midday; the river in the late afternoon. On the upper Zambezi, sunset trips run every evening, and riverside lodges also run them at dawn; at Zambezi Dusk two guided boat safaris a day are part of a stay. Our sunset cruise guide covers the public options.
The full year is in Victoria Falls weather by month and the best time to visit Victoria Falls. The month before is Victoria Falls in April; the month after is Victoria Falls in June.
